Foo | 769 Yates St. |250-383-3111| foofood.ca

Chef Patrick Lynch with Laksa with Local Fish (seasonal fresh fish dumplings, market veg and shanghai noodles in a yellow curry coconut broth with fresh cilantro, thai basil and lime). Photo by Rebecca Wellman

Foo is where you should go when you are aching to be back in Indonesia, ogling rice padi upon rice padi, or Thailand, dizzy with beauty and tastebud-tied for mere pennies. Foo is where you should go when you have not yet travelled but want to be transported somewhere exotic, succulent and satisfying. Or if you just want a lovely tuck-in. Co-owner Sterling Grice (Brasserie L’Ecole) and co-owner/chef Patrick Lynch’s (Sanuk, Monsoon) combined adventures, interpretations and zeal for travel communicate thoughtfully and thoroughly in this excellent addition to Victoria’s culinary portfolio.

The prawn and pork lettuce cups reminded me the most of authentic Asian street food. First of all, upon sight, it was impossible to gauge what meat lay mashed into the steaming mess of coconut cream, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf goodness. Second, it was messy. I scooped a pile into a lettuce cup that managed to drip down the length of my arm and I did not care because it was fantastic. The collective effort was tactile, hot, sloppy and delicious, though I would probably skip it on a first date.

The butter chicken, slow-cooked thigh in Indian-spiced tomato cream sauce, gave me pause. The flavors were rich, subtle and delicate. The coriander and smoked chili fry bread was a crisp yet warm pillowy way to sop up every last bit of the decadent sauce. It was one of those dishes that reminded me why sometimes it is nice when there is not too much heat; your attention can really focus on nuance.

The laksa with local fish had fresh halibut dumplings, handmade, tender and remarkable. The slippery Shanghai noodles writhe in a yellow curry coconut broth with fresh cilantro, Thai basil and lime. The balance of flavours was wonderful.

Patrick Lynch is adept at conscientious gastronomic appropriation; he introduces fall-off-the-bone short ribs to chow mein with broccoli, and his spin on paneer is refreshing. The paneer cheese dumplings include sultanas and almonds and they are deep-fried, wading in a sumptuous puddle of gorgeous masala. The crispy husk of the dumpling that opens onto a smooth and scrumptious inner world is a little gift.

The next time your nine to five is getting you down, and the winter rain and wind are mocking the travel guides and dusty photos you have demoted to the back of your closet, go to Foo and order four dishes. Works a charm, I promise. I have tried it more than once.

Foo is open seven days a week, and all dishes are $11 or less. Nice. At this time, they are not licensed, but they are in the process. 769 Yates St., Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Saturday, 5:00-10:00 p.m., and Sunday, 5:00-9:00 p.m.